Glue
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Glue
Since we have a dedicated board for WS now, I thought it might help to organize by kicking off topics around the typical WS questions. Content of string to be driven by subject line (I hope).
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Re: Glue
I think the best starting point would be to read this article by jander14indoor himself:
http://soinc.org/sites/default/files/up ... weight.pdf
http://soinc.org/sites/default/files/up ... weight.pdf
Re: Glue
There will be a few instances where airplanes are built at school and a compromise may be required on low fume adhesives. Here would be a suggested solution....
1) Use only *medium* viscosity cyano glue(CYA or super glue). There are fume free types but care must be given as it sets faster and "flashes off" with humidity. Storing in a refridgerator helps.
2) Use accelerator to make an instantly set glue joint. Buy this at a hobby shop. It comes in a spray bottle. DO NOT APPLY IT THIS WAY! Instead, only dispense the accelerator through a steel tube tipped, plastic squeeze bottle applicator. The applicators can be hard to find but there are some optional sources...
a) a "Labelle" oiler that is found at hobby stores is good. Remove the oil and clean it out with lighter fluid.
b) Pitsco has sold these applicators in the past but for liquid adhesives for bonding plexiglas.
c) Oddly enough, your local jeweler has these in their supply catalogs and can order one for you. They use them for applying adhesives to some stone settings....
To make a secure joint, just let the accelerator drip once onto the freshly glued joint and DO NOT touch the accelerator to the glue. This clogs the steel tip with glue and must be cooked out with an open flame (lighter).
OK, why the trouble? First, as Carney1 stated, CYA is permanent and if mishandled can stick parts very easily to the wrong place, forever. The good news is that, properly used, CYA can speed up production without losing precision.
A) Using the medium vis. CYA at least allows some movement before it sets up. When a part is positioned just right the localized drip of accelerator will set the joint instantly.
B) More than a translucency of glue is too much and adds unneeded mass (true with any glue).
C) Do not expect any glue to fill a gap (no matter what the label says). Parts must have a surface to surface fit.
D) Keep both accelerator and CYA seperated by at least 10 cm while building airplanes. When stored, keep them seperated into different cabinets and in different air-tight containers (tall presciption pill containers will work well here).
Though acetate glues are preferred by indoor enthusiasts for weight and "adjustability", CYA can be an effective option as proven by the 2008 national winner and 2009's second place finisher. Both airframes used CYA.
Good Luck.
1) Use only *medium* viscosity cyano glue(CYA or super glue). There are fume free types but care must be given as it sets faster and "flashes off" with humidity. Storing in a refridgerator helps.
2) Use accelerator to make an instantly set glue joint. Buy this at a hobby shop. It comes in a spray bottle. DO NOT APPLY IT THIS WAY! Instead, only dispense the accelerator through a steel tube tipped, plastic squeeze bottle applicator. The applicators can be hard to find but there are some optional sources...
a) a "Labelle" oiler that is found at hobby stores is good. Remove the oil and clean it out with lighter fluid.
b) Pitsco has sold these applicators in the past but for liquid adhesives for bonding plexiglas.
c) Oddly enough, your local jeweler has these in their supply catalogs and can order one for you. They use them for applying adhesives to some stone settings....
To make a secure joint, just let the accelerator drip once onto the freshly glued joint and DO NOT touch the accelerator to the glue. This clogs the steel tip with glue and must be cooked out with an open flame (lighter).
OK, why the trouble? First, as Carney1 stated, CYA is permanent and if mishandled can stick parts very easily to the wrong place, forever. The good news is that, properly used, CYA can speed up production without losing precision.
A) Using the medium vis. CYA at least allows some movement before it sets up. When a part is positioned just right the localized drip of accelerator will set the joint instantly.
B) More than a translucency of glue is too much and adds unneeded mass (true with any glue).
C) Do not expect any glue to fill a gap (no matter what the label says). Parts must have a surface to surface fit.
D) Keep both accelerator and CYA seperated by at least 10 cm while building airplanes. When stored, keep them seperated into different cabinets and in different air-tight containers (tall presciption pill containers will work well here).
Though acetate glues are preferred by indoor enthusiasts for weight and "adjustability", CYA can be an effective option as proven by the 2008 national winner and 2009's second place finisher. Both airframes used CYA.
Good Luck.
Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistiguishable from magic.
Arthur C. Clarke
Arthur C. Clarke
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Re: Glue
Both CA and epoxy are used.
Perhaps more important is surface prep.
- If you are using raw fibers, you probabably don't need any prep of the carbon fiber, but be VERY careful how much glue you use, it adds useless weight fast.
- If you are using preformed sheet or strip carbon fiber, you generally need to remove any mold release agent on the surface, soap and water should work. You may also need to rough up the surface you plan to glue slightly.
Jeff Anderson
Livonia, MI
Perhaps more important is surface prep.
- If you are using raw fibers, you probabably don't need any prep of the carbon fiber, but be VERY careful how much glue you use, it adds useless weight fast.
- If you are using preformed sheet or strip carbon fiber, you generally need to remove any mold release agent on the surface, soap and water should work. You may also need to rough up the surface you plan to glue slightly.
Jeff Anderson
Livonia, MI
Re: Glue
On glueing the carbon fiber... Procedure Caution....
If you chose to use CA (or even Acetate based) glue, make sure to wrapped wax paper around your finger as use press the carbon strip into the glue or as you applay glue to the carbon strip.
The carbon fiber may shed some short fibers and prick your finger and/or the CA will wick through the carbon fiber and you ened you attached to the carbon fiber.
Good Luck
If you chose to use CA (or even Acetate based) glue, make sure to wrapped wax paper around your finger as use press the carbon strip into the glue or as you applay glue to the carbon strip.
The carbon fiber may shed some short fibers and prick your finger and/or the CA will wick through the carbon fiber and you ened you attached to the carbon fiber.
Good Luck
Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistiguishable from magic.
Arthur C. Clarke
Arthur C. Clarke
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Re: Glue
Duco cement can be thinned/diluted with water right (to reduce weight)...? or can you only use acetone?
edit* nvm.. water just coagulates the duco cement.
edit* nvm.. water just coagulates the duco cement.

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