Towers B/C

[Clueless Builder]

So about a 25-35% decrease? Thanks for your insight. I have finished my first (crummy) tower, but will post back here when I test it. I'm not nationals material, but hopefully I can help to get a benchmark for people!

[IvySpear]

How do you guys recommending setting up a testing rig at home? Not too sure on exactly how to do it. Also, could you guys mention where you buy the 5 by 5 block, screws, etc.? Thanks

[retired1]

5 cm is extremely close to 2". so just cut a 2 x 2 square and drill a hole to pass the 1/4" eyebolt. A 2 " long piece of a 1 x 2 piece of lumber is a bit less than 2", but for testing purposes it would work fine as long as the top of your tower was less that that.
You get the hardware at a big box store. Talk nice and they may give you a 2" long piece of a 1x4.
What do you plan on using for your test table?

[Clueless Builder]

Well I have a 3D printer so I just printed mine. I could share the STL if you don't know how to make a square with a hole in it.

[jander14indoor]

I can't speak to your 3D printer, but most consumer grade ones I've seen tend to leave textured surfaces. Be careful with that.
Most tournament test surfaces I've seen are fairly slick, smooth melamine or similar. Your tower will behave VERY different on a smooth, slick surface than a rough high drag one.

Jeff Anderson
Livonia, MI

[bernard]

How do you guys recommending setting up a testing rig at home? Not too sure on exactly how to do it. Also, could you guys mention where you buy the 5 by 5 block, screws, etc.? Thanks

Pitsco sells a test block for Boomilever, which uses the same block as Towers: http://www.pitsco.com/Precision_Test_Block_Boomilever. A Test Base can be made from a thick sheet of wood. Draw the 20 cm x 20 cm square, drill a hole large enough for a jig saw blade, and use the jig saw to remove unwanted material. If your school has a wood shop, see if its manager is willing to cut it for you; the cutting is very quick and can be done in 3 minutes.

[Clueless Builder]

What is the reason for this difference between textured and slick? Would the loading block slide off of the tower?

And also almost all prints created with heated beds will have fairly slick undersides.

[JonB]

Well I have a 3D printer so I just printed mine. I could share the STL if you don't know how to make a square with a hole in it.

Are you referring to your loading block (top of tower) or your testing base (the surface your tower is on)? 3D printed loading block is good (no matter if it's rough or smooth) but I am not sure why you would print a test base. Can you clarify?

[Unome]

Well I have a 3D printer so I just printed mine. I could share the STL if you don't know how to make a square with a hole in it.

Are you referring to your loading block (top of tower) or your testing base (the surface your tower is on)? 3D printed loading block is good (no matter if it's rough or smooth) but I am not sure why you would print a test base. Can you clarify?

Was wondering about the test base; in my experience very few 3D printers are large enough for that (plus it would take a few days to print and be strong enough to support the load).

[bernard]

What is the reason for this difference between textured and slick? Would the loading block slide off of the tower?

And also almost all prints created with heated beds will have fairly slick undersides.

Sounds like Jeff is talking about printing Test Bases. Slick Loading Block Assemblies and Test Bases can surprise you if you've tested using setups that have friction. On a rough surface, the roughness allows friction to hold some things in place.

I second JonB's comment that printing Test Bases is not a good idea. Extruding layers rather than casting an entire piece produces a weaker product that can more easily break between layers.